Bodegas Roda- Iconic Contemporary Riojan Winery- this is where it got emotional!
Truly. Moved. Humbled.
It is difficult to convey the emotions that stirred during our visit to this contemporary winery, the youngest in the Haro region of Rioja…
Founded in 1987 by Mario Rotillant Solá and Carmen Daurella De Aguilera and built over ancient cellars on the banks of the River Ebro, this modern yet magical winery provides an interesting contrast with the more traditional establishments. Starting with a photographic exhibition, our elegant hostess, Edurne, conducted us on our VIP tour through the immaculate winemaking areas. Although Roda cultivates 20 vineyards, all of bush vines, each year only the best 17 are chosen, and these grapes then fermented in the 17 vast tanks.
After malolactic fermentation in the specially designed bioclimatic cellar, the aging barrels are stored in deeper underground chambers, some purpose built, and some in ancient tunnels hewn out of the rock over a century before, the remains of an older disused winery on the site.
The transition from the high-tech modern bodega spaces to the 19th century cellars provides an interesting contrast. At one end of the cellars, there is a dedicated area which is linked to the Bodega’s wine bar. At the other end, there is an exit to a private dining terrace overlooking the river. It was here that we enjoyed our wine-tasting and VIP lunch accompanied by Roda’s four fine red wines, Sela, Roda, Roda 1, and their flagship wine, Cirsion. Cirsion is made from specially selected grapesassessed for maturity by the level of polymerisation of the tannins in the grapes, all from vines older than 45 years old, 100% Tempranillo.
Traditional versus Modern Rioja has been the subject of much debate and discussion over recent times, and while we visited two traditional wineries on this tour, as well as two modern ones, it was this contemporary establishment of Roda that stole our hearts and brought a tear to our eyes, not just because of their exceptional Cirsion, but because of all four of their wines in synergy. My reviews of each of these wines on Vivino can be read below.
A fabulous VIP visit to Bodegas Roda, the youngest of the Harò wineries, founded in 1987. They handpick all grapes which are all grown on Bush Vines! 20 vineyards, of which they select the best 17 each year which they ferment individually in their 17 fermentation tanks. All reds. Sela is their entry level wine, still from 15-30 yo vines, 96% Tempranillo, 3% Graciana, 1% Garnacha. Medium nose of cherry, plums & cassis. Dry, medium acidity, smooth medium tannins, beautifully balanced; flavours of cherry and redcurrants, long finish. Exceptional wine at this price bracket. Delightful with mini-tostados with olive oil, and cold Spanish meats…
During the ageing process, the individual vineyards are sampled from the barrels to assess which have a tendency to red fruits, & which to black… Roda Reserva is the red fruit option. 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano. Medium Ruby colour, medium nose of red cherry & raspberry. Dry, medium acidity, well-integrated tannins, intense cherry flavours + raspberry & some oak. A beautiful wine offering exceptional value for money. When paired with bread & olive oil a synergistic explosion of flavour. Long finish.
3rd of 4 from Roda. Might keep the 4th for my 300th review, it’s that good! If you read my last review for Roda Reserva you will understand that this one is all geared to the black fruit… All bush vines! By the way, it was my birthday on Friday, no better way to spend it than a day in Harò with a VIP lunch at Roda overlooking the Ebro… 100% Tempranillo. Pronounced nose of deep ripe plums and violets. Dry, high acidity, full of body with high silky tannins. Flavours of blackberry, black cherry & plum, paired with cold Spanish meats, Tortilla Española and cheese. A long happy birthday of a finish.
Only 6-8 months in new French oak, followed by 1 year in the bottle before release. Deep ruby colour, almost opaque; intense nose of black fruits and violets, chocolate & mint with earthy notes, stunning! Tear in my eye!
On the palate, full-bodied, med+ acidity, high in velvety tannin, blackberry, blackcurrant, chocolate, tobacco & earthiness all in perfect harmony. So elegant, so emotional… I feel so honoured and privileged to taste this truly exceptional wine.
Our first 24 hours in Rioja were devoted to the Marqués de Riscal City of Wine. However, what could be more important than the winery tour itself? After a lovely breakfast on the terrace overlooking Elciego, we made our way to the Visitors’ Centre to meet the start of the tour. So many tourists pass through the City of Wine every day! We felt slightly smug that we were staying in the hotel here. We met a couple that day who had travelled over two hours from San Sebastián especially to visit the Marqués de Riscal! We started off with an audio-visual presentation in the contemporary wing of the winery before proceeding to view the exterior, both the historic and contemporary architecture in juxtaposition, and the surrounding vineyards, so beautifully tended, and already showing great promise in early grape development. It was so beautiful to be there amongst the vines, warm Spanish sun beating down, listening to the birdsong…
Back indoors, however, to tour the ancient buildings which date from 1860. Our guide gave an excellent explanation of the entire winemaking process, through from harvest, pressing and de-stemming, fermentation, blending, to ageing and bottling, matched, of course to whichever part of the winery we were currently in. There is something quite humbling about standing in the presence of these vast fermentation tanks, something reassuring about the pristine cleanliness, and something oddly comforting, for me anyway, in the sense of order in the ageing cellars, where the barricas rest in the peace and quiet…
For me, the scents of a winery are very distinctive; I can imagine you could tell exactly where you are by the smell… After we passed through the endless immaculate cellars, we came to the modern botelleria, but not before visiting the old bottle store, where the oldest and most treasured vintages are stored. In the modern bottling plant, we passed through two vast rooms containing many million bottles of wine, how overwhelming! This is an incredibly busy place: bottling, corking, labelling, packing and loading for shipping, all running smoothly if quite noisily!
Last but not least, of course, we arrived at the well-appointed Tasting Room. Below you will find the reviews I posted on Vivino.com on the different Marqués de Riscal wines we tasted over this 24 hours; ratings are out of 5* as per Vivino.
Not a bad welcome- in our room on arrival at Marqués de Riscal… An aperitif before our fabulous arrival dinner… An easy drinker for sure; produced by Marqués de Riscal but from Castilla y Leon, not Rioja… Medium nose of red fruits and all the mediums on the palate, tannins very well-rounded; possibly a little cloying but a crowd-pleaser I’m sure. A nice gesture on arrival… 3*
A blend of 90% Tempranillo and 5% each of Mazuelo & Graciana, and aged for 18 months in American oak, this Crianza was part of our set Menu de Riscal yesterday… A medium nose of red cherries and redcurrants, with prominent notes of coconut and vanilla; medium body and acidity with high tannins; also flavours of red cherry and vanilla… Medium finish. Paired exceptionally well with an unusual dish of cod with peppers in a spicy tomato sauce, and also with veal cheek… 3.5*
Wine can only taste better I’m sure after a fantastic winery tour… How I loved the old cellars! The order appeals to me… It was all so aesthetically pleasing! This 2010 Reserva has a medium Ruby colour with an intense oaky nose; also notes of cherries, balsamic spices & vanilla; On the palate, dry with high acidity, high alcohol & high tannin; a little light on the fruit but with a savoury medium+ finish. I would love to try this after an hour or two in a decanter, or tasting again in a few years… 4*
Stay tuned for our reviews of Roda, R.Lopez de Heredia and Vivanco, coming soon!
“Because, after all, wine is about joy and pleasure” – A quote by Frank Gehry, renowned architect behind the flagship 5* hotel of the Rioja region, the Luxury Collection Marqués de Riscal… We whole-heartedly, agree, Frank, and experienced much joy and pleasure indeed during our recent sojourn at this breathtaking edifice on our first Rioja wine tour, our base for exploring the fine wineries of the region. The Marqués de Riscal hotel is, of course, part of the City of Wine that incorporates the historic winery of Marqués de Riscal, the luxury hotel, and the Caudalie Vinotherapie® Spa…
This City of Wine is situated on the edge of the beautiful village of Elciego, about 30km from Haro, the capital of the Rioja region. The beautiful sandstone of the area’s buildings is incorporated into Gehry’s design, with steel and titanium, all blending well together and with the environment. Our tour here lasted four nights, in perfect June weather with highs in the region of 30ºC. We visited four wineries on this Rioja wine tour, the Marqués de Riscal, Roda, R. Lopez de Heredia and Dinastia Vivanco, and will report on these visits individually in subsequent blogs.
The Marqués de Riscal hotel was the perfect oasis in which to rest and recover between visits. There are three options for dining: light meals and tapas in the Vinoteca, the traditional Bistrò1860, and the Michelin-starred Restaurant Marqués de Riscal. We started our visit with the Menu de Riscal in The Bistrò 1860, as we also intend to do on future tours here. We enjoyed very much the fine Riojan Cava Dioro Baco and our meal was accompanied by the MdR Arienzo Crianza.
The hotel’s Vinotherapie® Spa provides many options for relaxation. Aside from the stylish black-tiled pool, which reflects the red of the walls to fit with the wine theme, the jacuzzi and steam-room, there are a myriad of options for spa treatments. All the treatments have a relation to wine, with many of the products derived from the wine making process, and you can even bathe in wine! We had to give it a go, of course, and I’ve included a photo of the barrel for the treatment below. We also recommend a massage- excellent, and just what you need after a hard day touring wineries!
I’ve already mentioned the beautiful village of Elciego, with it’s old sandstone houses and historic cathedral, of which one could never tire of the views from MdR. We also visited Haro, Riojan capital, and since it was fiesta time there was a fun atmosphere with a lot going on. We were invited to partake in a free public wine tasting in the main plaza! However, the most important part of our trip was, of course, the winery visits. This Rioja Wine Tour is likely to become one of our signature wine tours for the foreseeable future, and we expect it should run annually if you would like to join us. Why not register your interest by emailing firstname.lastname@example.org?
Stay tuned for our blog reports for the individual winery visits and wine-tastings. If you’d like to visit my profile on Vivino to view my wine reviews in the meantime, click here.